A master class in making pasta at home
With lifelong lessons learnt from guest chefs Mitch Orr & Stuart Toon, old traditions, new school ideas and a couple of recipes for good measure.
Every home cook wants to master pasta, it’s quick, comforting, and when done right, better than many restaurant meals.
In this weeks post I’m going to give a guide to making pasta at home.
The basic pasta recipe that I’ve used for over 20 years
The difference between rolling and extrusion pasta
Which flour and why
Guest chefs!
Yep, that’s right this week I have my first of many guests chefs on Substack.
I called in two mates who know a thing or two about pasta: Mitch Orr and Stuart Toon. They’ve both spent years in the game, but more importantly, they’ve got clear, no-BS advice to help you cook better pasta at home. Whether you’re boiling spaghetti or hand-rolling pici, there’s something here for everyone.
Stuart Toon: Salt the Water Like the Sea
Stuart’s approach to pasta is classic, honest, and grounded in good solid technique, he worked with Jamie Oliver for many years. I’ve known Stuart for a long time. He’s my business partner, one of the kindest humans I know, and an incredible chef. These days he runs Rocker in North Bondi, If I’ve ever had a question about pasta, Stuart’s the bloke I call…Sorry Stu!
Stuart, what’s the biggest mistake home cooks make?
“Not enough water. Not enough salt. It feels annoying to boil a big pan for a little pasta, but tiny, crowded pots lead to sticky, unevenly cooked pasta. I was taught by a wild Italian chef named Gennaro, he said, pasta water should taste like the sea, and the pasta should have room to swim. That stuck with me.”
What’s your go-to pasta dough?
“Easy. 100g good quality ‘00’ flour to 1 egg. That’s it. Just use the best eggs and flour you can get your hands on.”
Fresh vs dried…What’s your take?
“Fresh isn’t always better. In restaurants, we often use it for speed. But at home, dried pasta can be perfect, especially if you drop it into a loose sauce and let them come together. That moment is magic. Fresh is ideal for thicker hand-rolled pastas like gnocchi, cavatelli, or pici.”
Any chance of a cheeky recipe?
Yep, here’s one…
Pici Cacio e Pepe
By Stuart Toon
Dough
200g bread flour
Pinch of salt
15ml olive oil
100g lukewarm water
Method
Mix and knead 5–10 minutes, wrap and chill 2 hours. Roll into mini baguette shapes, 3–5mm thick.
Sauce
Toast cracked black and white pepper
Add a knob of butter and olive oil
Add a ladle of pasta water
Add pasta when al dente
Squeeze of lemon juice
Grated cheese to emulsify
Finish with egg yolk and more pepper if you like
Stuart can be found at Rocker Bondi and Stuart Toon.
Mitch Orr: Keep It Real, Keep It Delicious
If you ever had the chance to eat at ACME, followed the chaos of Duke, or caught a cheeky food opinion on Instagram that made you laugh and think at the same time,it may have been Mitch Orr.
I’ve known Mitch for years. We came up through the same circles, the same events, same circle of chefs. From the early days of TOYS Colective to him taking out the Josephine Pignolet Young Chef of the Year, it’s been awesome watching him carve out his own path. He doesn’t chase trends, he makes what he likes, how he likes it, and he makes it bloody delicious.
When it comes to new school pasta, Mitch is the one to chat to. He’s cooked it in some of the best restaurants, eaten his way around Italy, and still reckons a solid bowl of aglio e olio made at home can trump most things on a menu. His perspective is grounded, practical, and although he’ll hate me for saying, always a little rebellious. Many say he changed the pasta game in Sydney, I would agree.
I thought I’d ask Mitch to share his thoughts on home pasta cooking what people get wrong, what shapes deserve more love, and what dishes every home cook should have in their back pocket.
Mitch, what’s the biggest mistake you see at home?
“Overcooking. People are afraid of al dente. I’d rather eat pasta slightly under than mushy, it ruins the texture and it’s heavier on your gut.”
Fresh vs dried…do you care?
“At home? Dried. It’s consistent, releases more starch which helps emulsify your sauce, and it’s way less hassle if you don’t have gear or time. Fresh can be hit and miss unless you’re making it yourself.”
What dishes should every home cook know?
“There are three: aglio e olio, carbonara, and bolognese. Nail those and you’ll open up a whole world. They teach you heat control, timing, emulsification, plus they taste banging.”
What’s your five-minute pasta hack?
“Don’t overthink it. If you’re in a rush, make a packet of ramen or mi goreng. No shame in that.”
An underrated pasta shape?
“Farfalle and fusilli. Spirals are nostalgic and bowties are just fun. Fusilli’s great with a ragù. Farfalle? Just butter, parmesan, and maybe some mushrooms if you’re lucky.”
Who’s inspiring you right now?
“So many. Baba’s Place, Mikey Clift, Danny Pepps, Victor Liong, Rosheen Kaul… the list goes on. There’s so much talent in Australia right now. It’s a good time to be eating.”
Biggest influences?
“My peers, people I’ve worked with. Daniel Puskas helped me find my voice. Clayton Wells is a great sounding board. Greeno keeps me in check. And you, Daz, you’ve always had my back since the TOYS days.”
And what’s next for you?
“Maybe I’ll finally get a job, ha. More travel, more fitness, more working with young chefs. I still love this industry and want to give back. Just trying to keep the balance between being busy and lazy, you know?”
Follow Instakrill on Instagram for some epic food and all his adventures.
Rolling vs. Extruding: The Art of Making Pasta Two Ways
Keep reading with a 7-day free trial
Subscribe to How to be a better cook to keep reading this post and get 7 days of free access to the full post archives.